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ramadan, mohammed

My last night in Luxor I ate in a little restaurant not far from the train station. As I was paying and about to leave, the cashier - mohammed, above - asked if I wanted to buy a cassette of arabic music. Not really unexpected, as most people I'd spoken with in Luxor had wanted to sell me something.

I declined -- I had only a CD player -- but we kept chatting and after he had a brief conversation with the owner -- his father -- he invited me to his house. Ever the wary (american) tourist, I paused briefly, but it seemed all right.

We walked some side streets away from anything touristy, and ended up at a modest house. Tea was offered -- prepared by mother, somewhere off in the distant kitchen. Did I want sugar? It was just a bit later when I saw the pile of suger in the glass that the better question would have been "how many sugars more than 5 would you like?"

I don't recall the conversation, but I did meet his friend Ramadan, above, and several of his four brothers, and helped one with a few phrases in Italian. Seems that many people in Luxor worked in hotels, and dealt with a lot of Europeans (and not too many Americans).

I think I was supposed to send photos, but I can't recall if I did, and unfortunately, I didn't stay in touch. They seemed to be pretty friendly.